Nowadays, camera manufacturers want you to believe their cameras are very sophisticated precision digital instrument that can take great photos effortlessly. There is some truth in the marketing literatures, but they don’t typically tell you at the same time that their cameras can also produce garbages if the users fail to use them properly. I admit, this is really not necessary for them to do so in the marketing materials and most camera manuals do come with such warnings. The matter of the fact is that many people have some unrealistic expectations from their cameras that cost them hundreds if not thousands of dollars.

When it comes to the very basic aspect of photography, exposure, the common complaints we heard is that the camera doesn’t product correct exposure. People can typically notice the obvious problems such as blown out skies, dark faces, grey snow, pale green leaves, etc.

Sometimes exposure problem is not very obvious because untrained eyes would think the exposure is OK if they can make out all the details. There are also elements of personal preferences: some like bright photos, others prefer darker ones. The definition of correct exposure various as a result.

We are not talking about your personal preferences or creative decisions that you can make about exposures, for example, high key and low key photos. The subject is: why does the camera sometimes fail to produce correct exposure in automatic exposure modes?

First, the scene may contain larger luminance range (dynamic range) than the camera can handle. The camera is forced to make a decision based on pre-programmed preference or information such as color, focus distance, and focus spot. The results is undesired exposure at some parts of the photo.

Secondly, the built-in exposure meter in the camera can be fooled. It doesn’t matter how intelligent or sophisticated they are. “3D Color Matrix”, “iFCL”, “1005 pixels RGB”, “63 zone” are just some of the fancy words used by big name camera manufacturers. All in-camera exposure meters have a fatal flaw: they are reflected light meters.  They make decision based on the light intensity reflected from the scene. When the scene doesn’t reflect a statistically averaged 18% (or 12-13% as later studies found out) of the incident light, or the scene itself contains light sources (lamps, the Sun, sky, mirror reflections of flash, etc), the build-in reflected light meters will be fooled into incorrect exposure.

To obtain consistent exposure using reflected-light meter like the one in your camera, you can use a grey card, or compensate the exposure. The amount of compensation can be determined based on your experience or trial and error. You can also take multiple shots with various exposure compensation (exposure bracketing).

Another way of obtaining consistent exposure is to use an incident-light meter which measure the amount of light falling on the subject. The reading is not affected by the reflectance of the subject.

The following is an example of the exposure problem.

exposureThe photos were taken using a Nikon D200. I used aperture priority and matrix metering mode for the photo on the left. Exposure compensation was set at 0EV. The camera decided an exposure of 1/80s F/4 at ISO400. The photo on the right was taken using exposure of 1/200s F/4 at ISO400 in manual mode based on incident light reading from a light meter. The second photo accurately captured the late afternoon scene in my backyard. The first photo showed over-exposed pale leaves.


Posted in: Beginner Tips, Tips and techniques on September 19th, 2009. Trackback URI
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Comments

2 Responses to “Correct Exposure”

  1. Rick says:

    I’m not sure I would call that shot a problem. You used Matrix metering which takes the whole scene into account. 90%+ of that scene is the fauna. It gave precendence to that 90% and slightly blew out the background. I also think that 9 out of 10 people who took that shot would want the fauna to be visible. If you were really interested in just the front part of the plant then I would have been in Center or Spot metering. If you were in either of those other two modes though, the background might have been even more blown out as it tried to make sure that plant was fully illuminated.

    I think the real trick is to understand what you wanted out of the shot and then look at the LCD and histogram. If it was important to not blow out the background and you didn’t mind the darker plants, you’d do a quick EV change. Furthermore, if you shot this RAW (which I always do), you are only 1 stop overexposed from what YOU wanted and You could adjust the EC/Highlight Recovery in NX to get the same basic shot if you weren’t paying enough attention at the time you shot it.

    • picmax says:

      Rick,

      Thanks for commenting. I thinking you misunderstood the point of the article. It is not about user preference or how to get the photo the way people wants. The purpose is to discuss why the built-in reflected light meters do not always produce technically correct and consistent exposure that is based on the amount of incident light, not reflected light. As you said, the camera “tried to make sure that plant was fully illuminated”. The reason is that the camera is confused.

      The cameras tend to over expose on dark scene or dark subject filling the frame in automatic exposure modes. Sometimes this can be regarded as normal because people are interested in the details of the photo but not the true reproduction of the scene. Example is a people photo taken at dusk. Sometimes this is problem. For example, people in a dark suit in mid-day.

      Thanks.

      Max

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