I received the following question from our reader Rob.
Shooting indoors at night. I have a client that has reflexes so fast that her eyes are closed 90 % of the time. Using nikon d300 with nikon sb600. Use it on camera, off camera, TTL, rear sync, 250 to 20 and nothing worked. Turned model light off, turned it on. Threw something at the client to make them blink. Still nothing worked. Do you have any other suggestions? Regular light was enough to see but not enought to shoot with my 18-200 VR.
You are definitely not alone with this problem. There are many people who are sensitive to flash and blink every time they see it. Modern flash lighting technology uses so-called “pre-flash” to determine correct flash exposure. The main flash is emitted after the pre-flash with a delay in-between . If the delay is longer than the speed of human reflex, which is typically around 0.1 second, you have a good chance to capture closed eyes. The average length of a blink is 300-400 milliseconds. If the delay between pre-flash and main flash is anywhere between 0.1 to 0.5 second, the camera will likely capture eyes that are not fully open. Read More…
The following is a question submitted by DPTnT reader Daemon via our contact form.
I’m hoping you can help me understand some behavior I’ve been experiencing with my D700 and a couple of older flashes.
I’ve been hacking away with some older flashes; an SB-28DX and an SB-26, mounted together in a homemade bracket, and sync’ed together with an (I think) AS-10 cord. I can put an SB-800 on camera, trigger the two older flashes with a Pocket Wizard in the PC sync of one of the flashes, and the Pocket Wizard transmitter in the PC sync socket of the camera. If I keep the older flashes in full manual dump, I can get usable flash illumination at very high shutter speeds. I haven’t found a way to make this gear useful in the field, though. Too many variables and too much setup time. Also, there’s no way to vary the flash output, except for ND filters over the flash heads or some kind of physical obstruction of the amount of light that’s put out. I can send example images if you’d like.
My main question is: why does this work? What is it that the SB-800 does to my camera (D700) that allows it to incorporate the flash exposure from the two older units into the high-speed camera exposure? Without the SB-800 attached, the light from the older flashes will simply have no effect on the camera’s exposure. I’ll see the flashes go off, but they evidently are triggered too late to have any effect on the D700’s exposure. Do you see any way to answer that question?
This post was submitted by Daemon Baizan.
I received the following question about Capture NX2 from one of my readers.
I hope you can help me!
I’m getting into real estate photography and am struggling with getting excellent interior and excellent exterior shots i.e. in the one photo through windows etc.
I know in Photoshop you can take two photos; one exposed for outside and one exposed for inside and somehow put the two together to make one awesome perfectly exposed image.
Do you know how this can be achieved in Capture NX2?
Thank you in advance for any help you can give me.
The flash output level of a Nikon SB-600 Speedlight Flash can only be set to the minimal of 1/64 in manual mode. That leads many people to speculate the minimal output from the flash is 1/64. If you have used the Nikon Creative Lighting System (CLS) Advanced Wireless Lighting (AWL), you will know that you can use 1/128 output setting on the wireless commander unit. The wireless commander can be the built-in flash of your camera, or SU-800 commander, or SB-800/SB-900 Speedlight flashes. The question is what happens when the remote flash is a SB-600. Will it actually output 1/64 or 1/128 of light when the commander tells it to do 1/128?
To answer this question, I ran a test with a flash light meter to measure the output of the SB-600. Read More…
When I use flash for indoor pictures, will a manual setting of shutter speed 1/60s and aperture f/4 give the same exposure as shutter speed 1/240s and aperture f/2, assuming the focal length and ISO are the same?
The two different shutter speed and aperture combinations should give you equivalent ambient/background exposure but for subject exposure, the answer can vary depending on the exact shooting situation. Read More…